A really great trip for a total of $78.00 -
Thanks for a great trip guys!

Day One
One smooth river.

Beautifully sun filled blue sky over the backwoods wooden bridge with tall deep evergreens for background as I pulled into the Island River Entry Point parking lot. Tires crunching sand. Upon exiting the little green pickup my soul soured with inner laughter as I viewed downriver. Then swept my gaze up river! Not another soul in sight. The little no green pickup was the lone vehicle in the little sand square of a forest service parking lot. It was mid-morning and the sun was at that perfect angle. The sounds of birds, insects and the peacefulness was almost too much for those who know what being here alone is all about! This is what I had come here for.
The usual postings were on a wooden frame built quite nicely, (back woods style), by the DNR Forestry Department for the purpose of instructing campers and allowing sign in for day trips to the BWCAW. How to hang the food pack to avoid trouble with the locals such as our bear friends. Information on fires, group sizes and how to obtain permits for entry into the BWCAW. Camp only in the designated campsites with the U.S. Forest Service grates!
In a hurried , anxious, rush to get going and enjoy the sunshine perfect day, I pulled down the canoe off the roof rack and began sorting items I really needed and those I did not. Let’s see, hmmm, hatchet – too heavy, hand saw – really need, camera – yes, extra tent stakes – maybe, duct tape – only the small roll, extra tarp – yes. How much food do I really need?
This was to be a solo 4 day trip. Island River to Isabella River and then East to Isabella Lake and camp. That all changed when I stopped at the canoe outfitter in Ely to pick up my permit. In talking about fishing with a guide there I decided I wanted to go where the fish were a bit more plentiful. Sounded like it anyway! So now with shortsightedness and excitement I decided on about a 20 mile trip to Bald Eagle Lake. They did say that was a long way to travel, but that wildlife was very visible along the route. I did want to see some Moose and other wild life that I have seen about every other time I come here. It really is magnificent to witness a moose cross yards in front of your canoe or a wolf on the shore just before dark and stare into his eyes!
Anyways, I always bring too much and regret it on every single portage! Short or long the portage becomes a job in itself if you carry too many conveniences. This time I had my Duluth pack which seemed quite heavy and 1 other cook back plus the fishing tackle. Not too bad, but still more than 1 way at each portage.
Gliding into the serene river I did step in with 1 shoe, (old running shoe), no problem. Cold and clear water as is most of the water up here. Wonderful visible bottom of sand, rocks, small darting fish. I didn’t mind as the day was hot, sunny and I had packed my dry boots and water shoes away for later.
The river was calm at first, but as I headed north and then west the wind picked up! It became rather strong. It’s always hard to tell how strong the wind is blowing while your trying hard to make progress forward. I paddled hard and anyone who has an aluminum 17’ canoe knows how the wind can kick it around when you paddle solo! One minute your almost making progress on some white caps and the next your desperate to at least not lose ground1 Paddling from the bow seat does help some since it is more towards the middle and gives you a bit more thrust as well as the ability to paddle or almost row both sides alternating in a quick fashion. This is needed when the wind gusts especially! I had a few small white caps from the west as I entered Isabella River. Marsh and pine filled both banks along with reeds in parts of this river. It appeared like a wild rice lake in parts, but was a flat and wide stretch of the river almost 100 yards wide in parts. Every now and then a boulder would lume up an appear from nowhere without warning. It was hard to see the rocks before you were on them without someone in the front of the canoe to point them out. Big rock cliffs appeared in the next section of the river as it narrowed to around 30 to 40 yards wide and started some turns as I pushed on to Bald Eagle Lake.
I was not anxious to stop for lunch since I had a couple of cheese sticks to munch on the route. I wanted very much to set up camp on Bald Eagle Lake by dinner or close to it. This would give me extra fishing time on Bald Eagle Lake. The 1st 3 portages were a bit confusing since I had forgotten to look over a page in my map. Really dumb mistake by not opening and folding the map properly at the beginning of the trip. Hindsight is 20 / 20 and rushing the start of the trip was not smart! I had the last 5 miles or so that started to make sense now.
A 10 rod portage came 1st with ease I paddled through it as this was downstream. Then I decided I best portage the next 2 which were 27 and 27 rods both fairly easy. The 40 rod portage came and I pulled the canoe out and carried it to the other side and went back for my pack. My usual custom of 2 trips per portage. (Hint, Not a real voyager here!).
The next 33 rod portage I shot the rapids and really had a grate time! Pushing off rocks and boiling waves of water splashing down 2 to 3 feet each drop while turning at the same time, 1st left then right through the white waters, now hold the middle! Feeling brave and unbeatable against Mother nature I decided this is really fun! (Quicker too!).

By the time I reached the last portage of the day around 6 PM I was very tired, however, feeling that I was unbeatable in the last whitewater rapids I decided, (unwisely possibly with hindsight), to shoot this last set of rapids knowing I could cruise easily into Bald Eagle Lake within an hour or so after that and be in a cozy tent with that campfire flickering out front for the evening! What a great thought that was! There is nothing like relaxing in your warm sleeping bag looking forward to an early morning of fishing with your coffee mug before dawn! Peaceful, quite, dark and beautiful! Like a symphony of woods and water in the dark of morning after a good rest!
I entered the mouth of the rushing rapids, noticed my pulse quicken and matched it with the rush of river under me. I could feel every mover very well and instinctively reacted with every swell and turn! I saw the next group of rocks forming a churning chute with 2 to 3 foot boulders all around. Down the 4 to 6 foot drop turning to the right through the chute and descending in the foaming spray, I wanted to yell, “it was fantastic”! I hit it splendidly slapping the water with my paddle on the right pulling sideways hard and swinging the canoe around to forge straight ahead. Whitewater, pounded, splashed and crashed over and all around. Whew, I did make it through and what elation along with great relief! Then within 5 yards, almost immediately, I saw a larger rapids with a sharp left turn and down another chute of craggy boulders – My heart jumped to my throat this time! I swallowed quick to push that lump in my throat down, but had no time to feel if it really worked as I stuck the paddle hard on the left and pulled with everything I could muster as the canoe did gracefully slid down possibly 6 to 8 feet or more of roaring, white foaming and splashing water! Then the next instant the water was immediately smooth but very dark and fast, strangely under the clear blue sky.
My eyes raised enough to see a very frightful sight! The speed of the water picked up and ahead about 5 to 10 rods was a drop, (waterfall more than rapids), with a dead and downed pine tree less the needles, across the precipice.
This was one of those instances when time actually stops and you see everything around you in an instant, as you realize that it really must be impossible to have this knowledge of everything around you for 360 degree’s. However, you really feel and sense all around you for that very bright and really but strangely wonderful instance! The sun is very bright, blue is extremely blue and the green of the trees guarding the river are tall and deep green against that clear black water rocked shore. These things all have a spirit and are alive I believe at this point!
I am really not sure what my thoughts were at this point when I realized I had to make a decision that could be life or death! Immediately I felt the sobering bite of reality! First I said at least 2 times “Oh My God” in my head, as if I was screaming at the top of my lungs as I neared the edge of the precipice and tree laying across the river. The noise was almost deafening at this close point. I hit the downed tree with a sudden jerk and force that tossed me to the middle of the canoe! Immediate reaction was to paddle backwards furiously which I noticed at once was really strength absorbing and had no results! It was then I noticed I was also jammed between boulders about a foot up river and then another foot down river, wedging the canoe tight and at the same time filling it instantly with 100’s of gallons of water. First thought, “This is Bad!”. Second thought, “Do something dummy!”. I tried paddling and pushing the canoe over the tree and precipice , (although, I was not sure this was a bright idea) and tried to push it to mid stream and over the top with no movement. Now stuck and full of water, (submerged), I quickly remembered the big rope for hanging the food pack was in the top of the Duluth pack. I reached recklessly inside and yanked it out while tying it to the rear of the canoe at almost the same instant! Not the best knot, but at least a knot! (Panic was helping the speed at which I worked). I then tossed the Duluth pack, gear and paddles on to rocks about 2 feet nearer to shore on my northwest side. Great! I thought now I could easily pull the canoe out empty. I was dead wrong about that! Not so, as it was submerged and must weight 2 tons under that roaring water! Then a quickly a flash of an idea hit me, “flip it stupid”! I then flipped it as I pulled up on the side and then rolled it over and as it popped up on top of the water it also headed over the downed and dead evergreen atop the precipice. This looked pretty good for about 1 second as I started to pull it back up river. Just then it dipped ever so slightly under water and instantly submerged while going over the precipice. Then disaster infringed upon my little world here! As it was sliding over I was trying to push it to the center of the river so it would slide over the edge and shoot down river. It felt like an instant miracle as it raised up over the log and edge of the falls. I then thought since it was up I might be able to still pull it back! (Bigger Mistake!).
Immediately upon pulling the rope toward me the canoe made an awful crunching sound as both ends went down forma a “V” shape that was not familiar to me in canoe shapes! Wow! It had buckled and split open on the aluminum skin. Then with further horror it disappeared over the precipice! A very dark thought overcame me that it was gone! (Panic.) as I could not see over the edge to view the rivers path.
I now turned to my pack and paddles since I had lost the canoe to the river.
It really was a miracle to still have my gear. One irony of all of this was as I searched for my own wood paddles I found one of those cheap plastic paddles chewed up pretty good but still usable stuck under a rock in the river like some smart remark that no one could hear except me!
Now I was becoming exhausted! All of the gear was on the North side of the river perched on a few boulders with no way to cross back to the South side were the portage trail was and chance to find the canoe by the trail route. I was stuck in the deep woods and brush on the North side. It was now dusk and the sun was setting fast. There was still the problem of boulder hopping over water dragging the now wet pack and gear to get to shore. There were maybe 3 big boulders with 2 feet of rushing white water between them to reach the thick and now darkening forest shore. I had to drag and toss the pack and paddles. Of course now the pack was filled with water and seemed to way about 200 pounds. It may have taken about 1/2 hour just to move the pack over these boulders and on to the forest floor. Then slowly dragging the pack up the bank of the river, tipping the pack from side to side, inch by inch up the slope to a flatter spot. The brush and trees were so thick you could not move without a branch sticking and scratching you in some way. This was now really annoying as I tried to hurry before dark! I thought once I drop the pack then maybe I could hurry to follow the river upstream a ways and swim across to the other side to find the portage trail. Once I dropped the pack, I headed through the thick woods, finding large uneven ground with drops and ravines all along the way. I was carrying only the paddles in hopes of finding the canoe yet tonight! Really slow going with rough terrain and those darn state birds, (mosquitoes), attacking all along the way! Branches slapped and ripped at my skin as I struggled along the river bank and finally spotted an opening along the bank were I could see the portage entry along the other side. I jumped into the river with the paddles. It dropped off quickly and seemed a bit scary in the dusk of the early evening with the all too quite and the woods as my only company. As I neared the far side of the river swimming slowly and trying to stay up river from the strong current, I approached really huge boulders on this side climbing over and on to reach shore. Careful here as these can hurt if you fall or get cut on a sharp one! I reached the start of the portage trail which I really understood now that is the way I should have gone instead of through the rapids! My thought was to quickly find the canoe, hopefully at the other end of the 190 rod portage bobbing there before nightfall. I ran over this 190 rod portage soaking wet with night coming. I arrived at the other side and in deep despair saw no canoe! This was a terrible sight to me as now I was thinking the canoe could be anywhere. I dropped 1 paddle there and headed back up the trail knowing I must get back to my pack before nightfall. When I reached the end of the portage I dropped the other paddle as well as my wallet and watch to keep them as dry as possible since I had forgotten I was carrying them in my hurried anxiety to find the canoe. My plan was to possibly come back later that night to pick them up. I also thought by leaving the 1 paddle at the other end of the portage I might still find the canoe further downstream the next day and would not have to carry the paddle.
I swam slowly back to the muddy side and thick forest now. It was not easy at all to find my way back to the pack as there was no trail. Even though I had followed the river bank, it was still impossible to go in a straight line. As anyone knows who has hiked a wilderness forest, you have to travel in one direction a short distance then turn around boulders, trees, ravines and then turn and turn till you are either lost or able to follow some high tree or landmark. In this case I could hear the rush of the rapids now and new that direction was were I left the pack. It still was difficult as I approached the roar of the rapids I still had to back track back and forth several area’s before spotting the pack. This was a beautiful sight somehow!
I quickly searched for a somewhat flat area between trees as I swatted those pesky mosquitoes! I needed to put up that tent and eat something very soon! Hungry and tired I pitched the tent in a small triangle between trees and thicket. This was good but since the tent was square and not triangular it was not great. This was only a triangle of about 5’ x 3’ x 4’ or so. The tent and most of the food was wet, however, thankfully my sleeping bag and clothes were dry!
With the tent pitched I turned to find the stove and food pack. The cardboard box that held the stove was no more a box and all the food was soaked. Thankfully I had brought food in sealed packs like tuna, dry soup packs etc… My wonderful wife, (The smart one), had bought me a special freeze dried Mountain Backpack meal as a special gift before the trip. I had not given it allot of thought till now. I now believe this Mountain freeze dried meal was the life saver of the trip! I was much too exhausted to feel any hunger at all even though I had only eaten about 2 cheese snack sticks all day and a little water along the way were I thought it would be safe to drink. Now it was getting dark, maybe 9 PM, but I could not tell since my watch was parked up river and across at the portage. I realized I would not be crossing back over tonight as I lit the fire on the small stove. Thank God for packing in fuel and a stove! I boiled water to cook the freeze dried food and to drink. I now was fully aware of the loud roar that was the rapids that I must listen to all night long! It’s funny how a wonderful sound like that can become annoying about 3 AM when you really want to find your canoe. Anyway, I forced myself to eat the meal. I felt somewhat sad and happy, sad that I could not enjoy this really good meal and happy that I was able to even cook the food.
Lastly as darkness fell I opened my clothes bag (the only water sealed bag) and pulled out my bed roll. Took off all my sopping wet clothes, just now noticing I was uncomfortable and a little chilled. I dropped into the bedroll and fell asleep at once.
However, I awoke suddenly later. Not even thinking I had slept long, but feeling that I had been in very deep sleep, even though it must have been only about 2 AM I did feel well rested. Now I could not sleep again for the rest of the night. All the bad thoughts arrived at once in the dark of night! Where is my canoe? Has it washed away through the next lake? Is it broken in 2 as I thought when it popped over the rapids? Did I really hang the food pack high enough from the bears? Will I have food left in the morning? ( I had been too tired to find the best food hanging tree). Do I need to get up and swim and walk out over 18 miles through the woods and water, with no trail? Will I run into anyone and what do I say if I do? Are my paddles watch and wallet still on the other side of this wild river? Will I be able to cross again when light comes?
After banging my tin coffee cup on some coins when noises came during this very long dark night. I began to worry again if I would find the canoe. I kept looking out the tent screen door opening hoping to see those blessed rays of early morning sun or at least some brightening of this dark and bleak sky! However, anyone familiar with the morning woods of the BWCAW knows even early morning is sometimes somewhat dark. It takes a long time to barely brighten the sky and then longer for the sun if it shows to go over the tree tops. So I listened to the roar of the rapids only feet from my ear and I kept guessing it might be morning and praying that it soon would be! Finally at last, up most of the night, I could tell dawn was coming. What a great feeling to know I could attempt my cold river crossing soon to look for the canoe.

Day Two

Daytime is a happy time!

Tired now but with some hope I grabbed my life jacket (thinking this time) and swim trunks along with a dry shirt to hold over my head while I swam across upriver.
I was thinking this was good to wait till morning even though the canoe could be further away by now. Last night in the dark and exhausted would have been a terrible and possibly fatal mistake.
As I slowly made my way about a quarter mile along the thicket upstream above the rapids, I had to zig zag in and around holes, boulders, sharp branches and brush that pulled at you to trip you up or rip your skin. After about 1/2 hour to an hour I found the good entrance to the river bank. Slowly and gingerly I stepped into the river. Muddy on the side and a little chilly, I finally submersed myself and began to swim across side paddle style holding my precious dry shirt and bug repellent over my head with 1 hand as I splashed slowly across the swift current. On the opposite shore in the early morning daylight now I found it felt cleaner with sandy bottom but big boulders beneath to pull myself over and finally up on shore over the big boulders under water. This was the portage again from Isabella river 190 rods that goes to Bald Eagle Lake. (Were if I had taken it last night I would have been in a cozy campsite instead of this mess.) I almost ran the trail in parts again. Overly anxious to find that canoe! I would stop every 100 yard or so and try to make my way near to the river and rapids. Some places I could get through and look and others it was too high and rocky or thick to reach the river or even see the river. After some time, and long anxious moments I reached the other end of the portage that ends where the river starts again and flows towards Bald Eagle Lake. I had not yet found the canoe. It was a very desperate feeling now! I knew to try and follow the stream onward to Bald Eagle lake would mean trying to swim or walk through swampland which is really not possible for any length of time.
I stood there in the early morning light with the sun just peaking out at my back looking towards the stream to Bald Eagle Lake. Then I decided to wade into the river near the bank and try to retrace the rapids up stream in the river or on the bank. I decided the only way to find the canoe, if it had not gone too far, was to walk and move up the rapids in the river.
The 1st section was not too bad! I was able to walk in the water and then along the bank for about 50 yards, then forced back into the woods by high rock cliffs and ridges. I traversed around these outcroppings of rocks. Sometimes as much as a quarter mile back through the woods then back to the river bank. These river banks and rock cliffs were getting larger the further upstream I went. The rapids were getting rougher and larger as well. Splashing, foaming rocky mysteries!
The sun just seemed to glow in the clear morning air now and there around a bend and in front of me as I carefully plodded on the waters rocky edge was my canoe leaning against 1 of the 2 huge boulders, (cabin size boulders), like a magical dream! The aluminum glistened mirror like in the fresh morning sunlight. Unreal yet real about 1/4 of the way up a bank well out of the water as if it had been tossed there like a toy. It looked bent, upside down V shaped at each end. Both ends bending towards each other. Perched on the boulders with white water splashing out of the river into the air just below the boulders. More trees, thick brush and boulders above the canoe on the bank. It was a thick forest bank, more like a canyon than just a river bank. Pine trees and shear 10 to 15 foot cliffs lined the bank and then sharply sloping hill above the cliff to reach the top. My first thoughts were of gratefulness just to find the canoe on the portage side of the river. When I saw the canoe close up I was now somewhat horrified and elated all at once! Bent and buckled in the middle, the draft in the mid section was only about 3 inches deep and there were 2 gaping open holes in each side 4” to 8” long in the bottom on both sides were the canoe had buckled in the middle.
First things first, I thought, calm down and let’s get it up the cliff and river bank. As luck would have it I had tied that rope to the front of the canoe the day of the rapids which seemed long ago now, but was only yesterday. I never dreamed a rope would come in handy today. I used the rope and some pine trees to haul the canoe up the face of the rock cliff. Then on the cliff I had to wedge the canoe sideways between trees to hold it while I pulled it slowly up the rest of the incline. Altogether it must have been about 80 yards up at a very steep grade. Slipping and gasping for breath while giving it one last effort more than once as I knew there were no options here. When your really alone it’s amazing what you can do and what idea’s you can come up with!
Once up on the top of the ridge in the dense woods and brush I dragged my hope over to the portage trail, which was perhaps another 1/8 to 1/4 mile through the thick floor of moss, brush and evergreens. Stepping carefully not to put a foot sideways into the many crevices and rocks that abound here. It was a triumph to reach the portage trail and finally asses the damage taken by my canoe. It no longer looked pretty, sleek and capable! I really thought it looked hopeless as I peered at the buckled midsection and that each end was pointed towards one another to the underside of the canoe. Also there was a serious ripped open hole on each side of the midsection below the waterline with each hole about 2 or 3 inches wide and maybe 4 inches in length. The other problem was that it was now almost completely flat in the buckled midsection. Even if I could get it to float it was not deep enough inside! The top cross beam was now inside touching the bottom of the canoe. It was flat!
First I tried just jumping into the midsection thinking the bottom may bend and pop back into shape. It did, however, as soon as I jumped back out it returned to it’s damaged upside down “V” shape. Tired but angry now I threw it upside down on top of a large dead tree stump extending out of the ground about 3 feet. Nothing! Damn! Again, I laid it down in the portage path, this time in a depression deeper in the path. I jumped up and down as hard as I could. Over and over again! This really may have looked very funny to some unsuspecting canoeist if they had happened by this part of the portage at this time. Finally!, some results as it gained from some 3 inches of depth in the midsection then again some more depth as I repeated my jumps until it gained a full 10 inch in depth or so. Not the original depth, but a fantastic result and perfect for me at this time. For the 1st time I thought I had a chance. I recalled my brother in law fixing his aluminum canoe with duct tape as I could see the ground, brushy grass and trail dirt through the holes in the canoe. I was thinking deeply now, as if dreaming, in the cool clear morning. I recalled the start of the trip yesterday when I decided to bring the small flat piece of duct tape. Odd as it was it was wrapped on a flat cardboard and advertised as easier to stow. Right now I was wishing I had thrown the big roll of duct tape into the canoe when I left the truck,(now 20 miles up river), instead of this little flat piece which was resting back at the campsite. Allot of thoughts crossed my mind on how I could patch the tow gaping wounds in my canoe without duct tape since I wasn’t so sure of it working. One thought was that perhaps mud and bark of some mixture may work. Another was that perhaps some tree sap would be sticky enough mixed with leaves and bark or some other silly thing I may find here in the woods. Who knows unless I try? I hoped I had enough duct tape!
I happily portaged the canoe like some hunter with a prized animal he had killed for supper! Now a bit shaky but with renewed hope I plodded with my treasure back to the headwaters of the rapids. Once there I began looking for bark to jam in the open holes of the torn sides and bottom of the aluminum skinned canoe thinking it would be stronger with these tree bark fillers between duct tape on each side of it. Also, I had been optimistic thinking that if the duct tape did not cover it all, then at least the bark itself may hold out some water. That wonderful morning I realized that some greater power than I must be at work! How else can everything fit together and work out the way it does sometimes? I swam back across to find my duct tape in the pack back at the encampment. Even though I was getting scratched up and bruised by the brush I rushed back with the duct tape. I nervously applied the duct tape carefully to each hole starting on the outside and working from the bottom of the hole to the top. This would make sense if there was not enough tape. As it turned out, the duct tape was exactly enough to cover both holes! It could not have covered even 1/8” more, but it was good! Nothing went to waste that day!
I knew I could make it now and thought the duct tape would at least keep me from sinking. Some water would probably come in but I could at least paddle and bail as needed along the way.
I hadn’t realized how hard it would be to pull my gear out of that thick woods were I spent the long night. It took me almost 2 hours and 2 trips to go the short 1/4 mile. Of course everything still being wet caused the pack and bags to be much heavier than normal. What a strange and wonderful feeling to now have the canoe fully loaded and push off the muddy mucky bank away from the rapids and upstream. I paddled hard to make sure I didn’t slip back into the strong part of the current and back to the rapids. Now I could fully enjoy the yellow glow of sunshine drenching my tired body as well as the deep blue of sky and sylvan shores as I paddled upstream. I could not believe I lost only the pancake batter and 1 leather glove. Only that when just the night before I had thoughts of not being able to get out. I had seen no one paddling in for 20 miles and had seen no one yet today! Not the most heavily traveled route right now.
That darn duct tape actually held tight, in fact! It did not leak or seep in any way. The only water getting into the canoe was the anxious splashing caused by my paddling. I began to think about staying in another night now that I had things somewhat intact. Although wondering if the duct tape really would hold and knowing I had about 9 portages and 20 miles or so to go upstream. I thought I better find a camp closer to my entrance point tonight.
That evening was one of the most enjoyable I have ever spent in the BWCAW. At least it was up there with the tope ones! I pulled into a real designated campsite with fire grate and pit. I felt like I was staying at the New York Hilton. Coffee had never tasted so good! The evening camp fire had never been brighter! Time to enjoy a dinner. Life was good again and I did catch a fish early the next morning.
I paddled out of Isabella River into Deer River and hit the sandy shore were the truck was parked that mid morning. It is always a sad feeling to be leaving such a gorgeous place but a good feeling to be going home!

Moral: Don’t’ get over confident and look before you leap! But in both cases don’t forget the duct tape!

Cedar Canoe - built at home

Out for now!

Dit

The cost for food was $107.00 for the week split by 3 that was about $35.60 each per week, or about  $7.12 per day per person.  Now, if you go through an outfitter, the food alone would be $525.00 per week or $35.00 per day per person.  We owned a canoe and borrowed a kayak for the 3rd person.  This was free, were a canoe rental would be a minimum of $25.00 per day.  So now for 3 people the cost was $107.00 VS $650.00 for the week!  There are also other costs involved which can also be kept to a minimum.  The trick however is knowing which foods you can purchase at any supermarket, are packable and do not spoil.  I am currently reviewing our trip list and will produce the list we used in my next blog.